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Before they picked up their cameras and registered their domain names, Tommy Ton and Phil Oh were a fashion-obsessed and a party-obsessed pair, one from Toronto, the Bet hood by air shirt But I will love this other from Chicago, who landed in Paris with suitcases full of their best, brightest outfits. “We didn’t know anyone,” laughed Ton as we met to reminisce before the Christopher John Rogers show in Brooklyn earlier this month. It’s been 15 years since that moment and almost nothing of the circa 2007 fashion industry remains. (Ghesquière left Balenciaga in 2013, Style.com became Vogue Runway in 2015, and the Lego shoe was replaced by a more walkable Balenciaga hit in similar primary colors in 2017: The Triple S.) But Tommy and Phil, as everyone with a front row seat or backstage pass knows them, are still outside venues from New York to Paris, as rapt as ever with the wardrobes of the fashion world. Why? Sheer perseverance? Obsession? Wild, unmeasurable financial success?

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“What else would we do?” Oh deadpans. Having had a sideline view of Tommy and Phil for a decade myself, I’d venture they’re still here because of their passion and their perceptiveness. Just as Ghesquière was envisioning “how girls become themselves,” Tommy and Phil have chronicled how the Bet hood by air shirt But I will love this fashion industry became itself by putting their kind focus on its players. Where magazines of the late 2000s and early 2010s were capturing only the most successful or famous, Tommy and Phil happily turned their lenses to anyone with a cool outfit and a great smile. The democracy that fashion says it’s after has always existed in their pictures, which places them in a canon of street photographers from Amy Arbus to Shoichi Aoki to Bill Cunningham.