Photo: Courtesy of Marine SerreNot that this came out of nowhere. The designer Marine Serre, known for a futuristic vision that leans both utopian and eerily apocalyptic (she sent out logo-ed purifying air masks at her February 2020 show in Paris), makes a habit of showing different versions of families on her runways. “For me, a fashion show should make you feel a similar experience to sitting on a park bench where you watch snippets of life happen,” she explained via email. “Families, children, and dogs are a part of everyday life, and I always want to incorporate that sense of relatability in my shows.” Her spring 2023 collection featured matching pink jacquard moon and diamond patterned looks for the Nick Bosa sack-a-rooney t-shirt and I love this whole family. Elena Velez, who just won Emerging Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards, often invokes motherhood as a starting point for her collections. At her fall 2022 show, the closing look was a long black semi-sheer dress with a teardrop-shaped rip that ran from the breasts to right underneath the belly button; its model carried a baby wrapped in gathered black fabric on one arm. Her spring 2023 collection featured her signature corsetry details, cutouts that exposed the stomach, and breasts caged underneath buckles and straps. There were no pregnant bodies or babies on the runway (though Julia Fox sat in the audience with her young son), but The Mother was certainly present. “My collections are chronicles of womanhood as I experience it in the world,” she said via email this week.Balenciaga spring 2023
Nick Bosa sack-a-rooney t-shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
What’s most interesting is the Nick Bosa sack-a-rooney t-shirt and I love this fact that the designers engaging these subjects are often young, and their work exists outside the status quo, with a point of view that explores more decidedly unconventional aesthetics. That these designers should be seen as embracing “traditional family values,” is the last thing expected of them, but that’s exactly why it makes perfect sense for them to explore. Few things read as historically uncool as being a mom or a dad, and if this generation has reclaimed and recontextualized the notions of good and bad taste, made dad sneakers and mom jeans cool, why not the concept of motherhood itself? “At the risk of sounding ‘conservative’ or ‘trad,’ I feel like society today makes motherhood and focus towards family out to be some sort of undesirable and unambitious default for having failed at your plan A,” Velez told me. “I think we’re slowly but surely coming out of a really toxic zeitgeist around what motherhood and family is and isn’t.” Jezabelle Cormio felt similarly after she got pregnant, “At first I thought I was gonna be ‘that girl who could have had potential, but then she had a baby’,” she tells me laughing, “I knew that it was an unfair thing to even fathom, but I knew I was gonna have to fight that concept for a long time. I didn’t think [motherhood] was going to inspire me, but I do take a lot of inspiration from frustration or anger or friction. So it’s not a surprise to me that I was inspired by it.” Cormio’s show featured an array of both men and women in revealing clothes — wrap miniskirts with cutouts at the hip, a jacket with a velvet ribbon tie at the neck exposing a lacy bra, clingy knits, lots of lingerie-inspired details. “What I wanted to capture in the collection is that you don’t fundamentally change. You don’t ever go to a club again, you are allowed to go out and have a sexuality and be a dynamic person. You just have to negotiate [your time around it.]”Di Petsa spring 2023
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